I admit I was a bit skeptical when I learned that a sushi restaurant was coming to part of the space formerly occupied by Maidenhead Bagels, across from The Lawrenceville School. I envisioned (and feared) a cut rate, grab n’ go takeout operation geared toward pushing out voluminous quantities of seafood of less than stellar quality. In short, a dubious addition to what has been the slow, albeit welcome, evolution of the adjoining blocks into a dining destination.
My skepticism began to ebb upon entering the glassed in entryway of Naoki Sushi with three dining companions shortly after its October 19 opening to sample the luncheon menu. It’s worth noting that the entryway serves as both a waiting area for arriving customers and also serves to buffer diners from the traffic noise on busy Main Street. It was the first of many welcome design touches that would enhance the dining experience to come.
Before getting to the prime objective of my visit, let’s dwell on the interior design of Naoki Sushi a bit longer. Naoki’s website invites diners to “step into an artfully designed interior, meticulously crafted by renowned Japanese architects, Katsunori Takeuchi and Hiromi Tsuruta.” This is one instance where the hype is in sync with reality. It was obvious from the subdued lighting and wall treatments, interplay of light and dark woods and the spare, no-nonsense geometry of the eight-seat counter that considerable care has been invested in creating a venue for serious dining.
“Embracing the Japanese philosophy of ‘less is more,’ our restaurant’s architecture revolves around the principles of minimalism,” notes general manager Stephen Khoo. “This deliberate choice encourages our patrons to completely immerse themselves in the culinary experience, creating an atmosphere free from distractions and allowing them to truly savor the meal they’ve come to enjoy. As customers step into the restaurant, our goal is for them to feel as though they’ve entered a genuine Tokyo dining experience. This encapsulates the essence of our designers’ vision.”
Curiosity about Katsunori Takeuchi and Hiromi Tsuruta got the better of me, and a bit of web searching (yes, I will get to lunch eventually) revealed that the phrase “renowned Japanese architects” was a spot-on description.
Katsunori Takeuchi, principal of Brooklyn based Katsunori Studio, is an interior and furniture designer whose projects include Mifune in Manhattan, considered by Forbes magazine to be “one of New York’s most distinguished Japanese restaurants.”
Hiromi Tsuruta is the founder of interior design firm Super Paprika. The firm’s portfolio includes Hirohisa Restaurant in Manhattan headed by Michelin starred chef Hirohisa Hayashi, as well as Kosaka, an omakase restaurant whose interior The Village Voice describes as “a light American walnut bar and lots of slate-colored materials, the minimalist design (by Hiromi Tsuruta of Super Paprika) feels like it could be in Tokyo.”
Stephen Khoo notes that Naoki is executive chef Naoki Tashiro’s first and only restaurant. “Chef Naoki embarked on his culinary journey at the age of 18, receiving classical training in Tokyo,” Khoo notes. “For 16 years, he honed his skills in the heart of Japan before bringing his expertise to the United States. Throughout his career, he accumulated invaluable experience in various Japanese restaurants in New Jersey and New York, Ultimately, his career led him to the role of executive chef at Aoi Japanese Restaurant and Bar in Woodbridge NJ.”
Why did chef Naoki choose Lawrenceville for his restaurant? “Lawrenceville is known for its diverse culinary scene, and we aspired to contribute to this tradition,” Khoo says. “Prior to our establishment, those seeking a true Omakase experience would often have to travel to cities like New York or Philadelphia.”
On to the menu. Lunch, served Wednesday through Saturday between noon and 2 p.m., features chirashi or a nigiri set, each priced at $35. Chirashi,(or chirashizushiis) is a classic style of sushi, consisting of a bed of sushi rice that serves as the backdrop for the preparations artfully arranged on top that in addition to raw fish typically include tamago (sweet egg sushi), shiitake, kanpyo (dried shavings of a variety of calabash gourd), and oboro (dry shaved kelp). The nigiri set consists of 10 pieces of sushi and one special roll. Both choices are accompanied by a small salad and miso soup. A range of a la carte choices are available as well, including preparations of Wagyu beef and smoked salmon for the non-sushi lovers in your party.
At the dinner service at Naoki the dining experience gets a bit more adventurous, and pricier, when Tashiro offers seven course omakase (chef’s choice) dining with seatings at 6 and 8 p.m. An experience for the adventurous diner to be sure; the Michelin Guide notes that “few formal dining experiences are as revered or as intimidating” as omakase.
Naoki’s Omakase ($150) consists of three kinds of appetizers, a sashimi course, steamed egg custard served with snow crab and seaweed sauce, a dozen nigiri sushi selections, a soup course, and dessert. For an additional $30, diners may choose Naoki’s Omakase with Wagyu Beef, adding A5 Wagyu beef (the highest possible grade) from Miyazaki, Japan, prepared on a stone grill. Visit Naoki’s web site for other options and details.
Sooo… how was our lunch at Naoki Sushi? As one who thoroughly enjoyed the experience but lacks deep experience with Japanese cuisine, I’ll turn things over to two of my dining companions, Noriko and Marty. Their comments have been edited to meet space requirements.
“As a Japanese/American couple, we regularly explore and frequent sushi restaurants, especially during our annual trips to Japan,” says Marty (in consultation with Noriko) “and we’d like to share our very positive experience at Naoki Sushi.”
“We ordered both the Nigiri set that included 10 pieces of high-quality nigiri and one special roll, and also the Chirashi set, an assortment of sashimi grade seafood on seasoned sushi rice,” he continues. “Both of these delicious $35 dishes were accompanied by a fresh salad and tasty miso soup.
“Naoki Sushi is a genuine sushi restaurant that specializes in fish. They serve a limited number of non-fish choices on their a la carte menu. One of our friends doesn’t eat raw fish, so we inquired about this via email, and they promptly sent a copy of their a la carte menu with some nicely highlighted choices. She ordered the Wagyu beef and smoked salmon sushi.
“All of the food was nicely served, very fresh, beautifully prepared, and delicious. The Nigiri and Chirashi sets proved to be a better value than the individual a la carte selections. It’s a BYOB, so bring along your choice of beer, wine, and sake.”
Marty and Noriko also noted that our table service was friendly and respectfully attentive throughout our meal, which was prepared by Naoki and his staff. Reservations are highly recommended. The restaurant was fully booked for out mid-week visit and a number of would-be walk-ins were politely turned away.
The couple also promised to return. “Naoki Sushi is clearly the best authentic Japanese restaurant that we’ve found in our area,” Marty notes. “We’ve already made a reservation to return to Naoki Sushi for a luncheon with friends. We’ll also return to enjoy their omakase dinners with friends and on special occasions.”
Stephen Khoo adds that the response of the community to Naoki has been a positive one. “Since our opening on October 19th, we’ve been overwhelmed by the tremendous response and amazing feedback from the community and surrounding areas,” he says. “Consistently, whether in person or through online channels, patrons have praised Chef Naoki’s exceptional sushi as among the best they’ve ever experienced. It’s truly gratifying to know that customers no longer feel the need to travel to New York City or Philadelphia to savor the level of culinary excellence we offer.”
Naoki Sushi, 2649 Main Street, Lawrenceville, Tuesday: 6 to 9 p.m., Wednesday through Saturday. Noon to 2 p.m. and 6 to 9 p.m., Omakase servings only at 6 to 8 p.m.
For more information, call 609 483-3232, email at info@naokisushidining.com, or visit them online at naokisushidining.com.
