Clearly, the pandemic knocked the restaurant business for a loop, although estimates of just how many establishments closed permanently vary widely. And the post-pandemic recovery, while still underway, does not necessarily portend a return to business as usual. CNN Business notes in its report titled “Three ways Covid changed the restaurant industry” that many changes in diners’ behavior and the labor shortages wrought by the pandemic have become a part of the culinary landscape for the foreseeable future.
One change that may or may not be permanent is a shift away from dining in to a greater emphasis on picking up prepared meals to take home. As the head of one research firm focusing on the food service industry notes, “The pandemic taught consumers that you can still have a quality meal, and you don’t have to eat it in the restaurant.”
The logical corollary to the takeout trend is a shift toward delivering meals to patrons, either via an in-house delivery service or through third-party delivery services such as DoorDash and Uber Eats, although such services add significantly to the cost of doing business, costs typically passed on to customers by already cash-strapped restaurateurs.
A report put out by Modern Restaurant Management (modernrestaurantmanagement.com) on post-pandemic trends in the restaurant industry notes that many restaurants are responding to the labor issue by an increasing use of technology to increase efficiency and fill the gap, both in the overall management of their operation and by streamlining the front-of-house experience.
With respect to the latter, diners will note (many to their chagrin) that the traditional printed menu is being replaced by QR codes, a trend that, despite consumer resistance (No cell, no scan, no service?), is expected to continue.
Just to add another soupcon of gloom, a Global State of the Consumer report put out by the multi-national professional services network Deloitte (deloitte.com) paints a potentially grimmer picture, at least for the short term. The combined effects of the pandemic and the resulting push to work from home have sparked an interest in cooking at home and questions whether a sustained post-pandemic rush to resume dining out is really in the cards.
Almost half of the consumers surveyed by Deloitte said they would be cooking at home more. One in three intend to dine out less than before, although this loss of revenue may be fully or partially offset by an expected increase in takeout and delivery. Time will tell.
Stir in a shrinking labor pool — the result of layoffs and an exodus from the industry fueled by health-related fears — to the growing list of challenges to the restaurants that have managed to weather the storm and keep their doors open, and it’s a wonder that anyone claiming sanity would consider leaping in to the current culinary landscape.
Statistics and industry analysts aside, the wild card in this shaky house of cards is the entrepreneurial spirit, resiliency, and adaptability of restaurant owners and managers, and of the desire of the communities they serve to emerge from their Covid cocooning and rediscover the pleasures of dining out in a convivial atmosphere with family and friends.
And in addition to the aforementioned trends, restaurant owners in our area are becoming more creative when it comes to attracting guests in other ways, adding takeout options, live entertainment, discounted “dine local” menus on traditionally slow weekdays, and in at least one instance reintroducing a touch of dramatic retro dining flair in the form of table-side preparation of signature dishes.
As we segue out of winter and fully engage in the earthly delights of spring, consider the following sampling of area dining establishments that have recently opened their doors. Whether you choose to give them a try, or return to an old favorite that has weathered the storm, you’ll be giving yourself a well-deserved break and helping to prove the doomsayers wrong. Bon appétit!
Note: Hours of operation, menus and prices are subject to change; check with the restaurant before you go, and remember that most establishments prefer that you book a table in advance and observe their cancellation policy.
Hopewell
Ottoburger
A 1958 Chevy pickup truck pays homage to Ottoburger’s new Hopewell home’s past incarnation as a Chevrolet dealership.
It isn’t just the move to its new location on Hopewell’s Main Street on March 12 that qualifies Ottoburger as the newest restaurant on this list. Patrons of the site’s former occupant, Brick Farm Market, will note an added homage to a former incarnation of the brick edifice that once housed a Chevrolet dealership; a beautifully restored 1958 Chevy pickup truck that holds pride of place in the main dining room, laden with Unionville Vineyards wine barrels, several of whose offerings are thoughtfully offered in both 750ml and 350ml bottles and various wine-based concoctions.
As you might suspect, burgers are the signature dish at Ottoburger. Owners Maria and Otto Zizak promise that “we make all components of every meal in house or on the farm. The buns, the ketchup, the mustard, the pickles…” The result, confirmed by a recent visit, is a very tasty selection of burgers, from the signature “Otto” (beef patty, cheddar, grilled onion, tomato, lettuce, pepper aioli), to a range of creative riffs on the burger based on local beef, heritage turkey and pork, shrimp, as well as a beet / black eyed pea-root veg burger and a chicken “schnitzel” creation. All are priced at $16 ($2 supplement for the shrimp patty) and include choice of fries, sweet potato fries, or salad.
A selection of “not burgers” are offered as well, such as grass-fed beef goulash with spatzle ($17). If you have room for dessert, donuts (baked or fried), milkshakes, and home-made ice cream should satisfy your craving nicely. Top it all off with coffee by Benfatto roasters of Hillsborough. Another welcome, family-friendly touch is that dine-in guests 10 and younger can choose from a complimentary list of items.
Otto and Maria have also initiated their “Gas Pump Sessions,” offering “Curated Performances, Featuring The Best Of Hopewell Valley Talent And Beyond …” The last Wednesday of every month features a musical series, in partnership with the Hopewell Valley Arts Council. Full schedule at ottoburger.com.
Ottoburger, 65 East Broad Street, Hopewell. Hours: 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. daily. Online reservations, online ordering (takeout) available. www.ottoburger.com.
Lawrenceville
Naoki Sushi
Chef Naoki Tashiro of Naoki Sushi in Lawrenceville.
Naoki Sushi is arguably the most upmarket of dining establishments to open in our area recently. The care and attention to detail and quality carries through from the elegant, understated decor to the menu, the creation of executive chef Naoki Tashiro. Lunch features chirashi or a nigiri set, each priced at $40. The chirashi set consists of a bed of sushi rice with preparations artfully arranged on top that typically include raw fish, tamago (sweet egg sushi), shiitake, kanpyo (dried shavings of a variety of calabash gourd), and oboro (dry shaved kelp). The nigiri set consists of 10 pieces of sushi and one special roll. Both choices are accompanied by a small salad and miso soup. A la carte choices are available as well.
At the dinner service at Naoki the dining experience is more adventurous — and pricier. Chef Naoki offers a multi-course omakase (chef’s choice) dining with seatings at 6 and 8 p.m. Naoki’s Kotobuki Omakase ($150 table seating / $170 at the sushi bar) consists of three kinds of appetizers, a sashimi course, steamed egg custard served with snow crab and seaweed sauce, a dozen nigiri sushi selections, a soup course, and dessert.
For an additional $40 ($190 table seating / $210 at the sushi bar), guests may choose Naoki’s Kagayaki Omakase with Wagyu beef imported from Miyazaki, Japan, and prepared on a stone grill. Visit Naoki’s website for other options and details.
Naoki Sushi, 2649 Main Street, Lawrenceville. Hours: Lunch: Friday and Saturday, noon to 2 p.m.; Omakase: Tuesday through Thursday, 5:30 and 7:30 p.m., and Friday and Saturday, 6 and 8 p.m. Online reservations available. BYO. 609 483-3232. info@naokisushidining.com. naokisushidining.com.
Princeton
Jagrah’s Restaurant and Bar
Chef James Graham of Jagrah at Princeton Country Club.
I challenge you to find a dining establishment that covers more culinary bases than Jagrah’s Restaurant and Bar. Opened in 2020 inside the Princeton Country Club and open to the public, owner and executive chef James “Bishop of Culinary Arts” Graham and his spouse and co-owner Stephanie preside over a dine-in / takeout / catering / entertainment destination. In addition, Chef Graham’s own gourmet spice rubs & infused oils (“coming soon”) are available for purchase.
The eclectic menu ranges from hot dogs, chicken fingers, and burgers to “salmon crab cakes” and lots of choices in between. Call for current catering options. Entertainment and events at Jagrah’s have included a Sunday jazz brunch, karaoke nights and poetry nights. A DJ often gets the house rockin’ on Friday nights — check the website for dates and details.
Jagrah’s, 1 Wheeler Way, Princeton. Hours: Mondays, closed; Tuesdays and Wednesdays, 11 a.m. to 7 p.m.; Thursdays, 11 a.m. to 8 p.m.; Fridays and Saturdays, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Sundays “all day brunch” 11 a.m. to 5 p.m.; Happy Hour, Tuesdays through Fridays, 5 to 7 p.m. Online reservations, catering, DoorDash, Grubhub, Uber Eats, online ordering (takeout) available. 609-45209382 x4 or 732-604-5309. info@jagrahsevents.com. diningwiththebishop.com.
Maman
The interior of Maman, which offers coffee, pastries, sandwiches, and more on Hulfish Street.
Building on its debut in NYC’s Soho in October, 2014, Maman’s 24th outpost opened in Princeton in November, 2022. It would be hard to dispute the characterization of the Princeton location posted on its web site: “this café feels like something straight out of a hallmark film ... grab a cup of coffee or pastry while you amble about town. Our spacious & sunlight-filled interior also makes the perfect study or lunch catch-up spot. What’s not to love?“
In addition to “Maman Classics” like Smashed Avocado Tartine, Farmhouse Granola Parfait, and Brenda’s Belgian waffles, a selection of pastries, soups, salads, and beverages are on offer. Calorie counts for each item are provided, and gluten friendly, vegan, and vegetarian options are available.
Maman, 43 Hulfish Street, Princeton. Hours: Mondays through Fridays, 7:30 a.m. to 6 p.m.; Saturdays and Sundays, 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. (Kitchen closes at 4 p.m. daily). Online reservations, catering, on-site private events, online ordering (takeout) available. mamannyc.com/locations/princeton.
The Nassau Diner
Nassau Diner serves up diner fare with international flair.
The Nassau diner opened its doors in October, 2022. Touting “Classic Comfort Food with Sophisticated Style,” the Nassau strives to accomplish just that, offering diner favorites like its Jersey Breakfast (pork roll, egg & cheese on a brioche bun, breakfast potatoes) as well as surprising and satisfying twists, such as its Israeli Breakfast (shakshouka, farmer’s cheese, Israeli salad, laffa bread) and a Scandinavian Breakfast (toasted rye, farmer’s cheese, smoked salmon, scrambled eggs, tomatoes, cucumber & dill).
Lunch and dinner entrees start with a host of creative burger variations (under $20), sandwiches, and pasta dishes, as well as more sophisticated fare, like pan roasted salmon fillet with pesto butter ($28) and topping out with “A Good Steak” topped with bearnaise sauce ($32). An assortment of ice cream treats, cakes and pies, a kids menu, and extensive selection of beverages make for a family-friendly vibe.
The Nassau Diner, 82 Nassau Street, Princeton. Hours: Sundays through Thursday, 8 a.m. to 3 p.m.; Fridays and Saturdays, 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. 609-493-0132. www.nassaudiner.com
Lambertville
Hash House Food & BYO
Lambertville’s Hash House serves up cannabis-themed breakfast and lunch items.
The folks behind the well-regarded Boro restaurant and bar in Pennington (bororestaurantbar.com) and Cafe 72 in Ewing (cafe72ewing.com) have opened Hash House Food & BYO at 236 North Union Street in Lambertville, the former home of Thai Tida restaurant.
“We’re aiming to elevate breakfast and lunch by offering what I like to call ‘casual fine dining,’” according to managing partner Joe Crozier. The restaurant’s moniker is an allusion to its proximity to the dispensary Union Chill Cannabis Company.
True to its name, the menu at Hash House plays on the cannabis theme. Diners can order a “Hippie Lettuce Vegan” salad, “Pufffff Cakes” (strawberry syrup, crushed meringue, vanilla matcha cool whip), or a “High Chai,” “Alcapolco (sic) Gold Vegan” or “Lemon Haze Vegan” from the list of “Boujie Drinks.” The signature dish and homage to owner Ben Sanford, Oh Benny Benedict, incorporates mortadella, fried jalapeno, poached eggs, caramelized onion, and served with (of course) hash browns on the side.
Hash House Food & BYO, 236 North Union Street, Lambertville. Hours: 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. daily. Online reservations, catering, online ordering available (pickup and via DoorDash). BYO. 609-316-4129. hashhouselambertville.com. info@hashhouselambertville.com.
T54
Taverna 54 bills itself as “a restaurant that offers authentic Italian cuisine, including pasta, pizza, salads, and more” and a very satisfying dining experience with friends on a recent visit there would characterize the description by owners Antoinette and Massimo as an understatement. The space on North Franklin Street formerly occupied by Deanna’s has been transformed into a spacious taverna with a 30-foot bar running the length of the back wall that somehow manages to retain a cozy, welcoming feel.
Menu selections are far too extensive to detail here; a range of meat, seafood, and pasta preparations are offered to suit most every palate and budget, plus nightly specials.
Those seeking especially good value will find it on the three-course “T54 Local Dinner” menu served Tuesdays through Thursday; check the T54 website for current offerings. The extensive list of wines by the glass or bottle ranges from several selections for a very reasonable $30 — like the 2018 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo “Fontezzoppa” — on up to a 2011 Amarone Della Valpollicella Classico “Bertan” ($195). Craft cocktails and beers are offered as well.
Pro Tip: On Tuesday, Wednesday, and Thursday, watch, listen and enjoy as owner Massimo performs a bit of tableside theatrics to prepare Pasta on the Wheel ($39), expertly employing a blowtorch to transform freshly made pasta and a humongous wheel of cheese into a very satisfying entree.
T54, 54 North Franklin Street, Lambertville. Hours: Tuesdays and Wednesdays, 5 to 9 p.m.; Thursdays and Fridays, 5 to 10 p.m.; Saturdays, 4 to 10 p.m.; Sundays 4 to 8:30 p.m. Online reservations, catering, on-site private events, online ordering (takeout) available. 609-460-4212. info@taverna54.com. taverna54.com.
